Record-Setting Grand Teton Picnic

On August 1, I completed the Grand Teton Picnic in 11 hours and 43 minutes. This feat is the fastest known time by a woman (with support along the way). Accomplishing this goal was no small task and feels incredibly rewarding. I'm going to take you through my experience from training to the day of the Picnic, and then detail what I learned from it all.

The Grand Teton Picnic is a human-powered mountain triathlon in Grand Teton National Park, created by David Gonzoles. It's a unique endurance challenge that combines a total of: road biking 46 miles, swimming 2.6 miles across Jenny Lake, and running and climbing 20 miles, including free soloing the Grand Teton (13,775’) via the Owen Spaulding route.

Training for the Picnic was simultaneously challenging and fun. I began training in the spring, running five days per week, biking twice per week, and swimming one-to-two times per week. My natural strength is in scrambling and mountain running, so it was fun to tackle big days in the mountains with my adventure and climbing partner Jimmi Ryan. For example, on one of our training days we climbed the Grand Teton, Middle Teton and South Teton in under ten hours! On other days, we would swim across Phelps Lake or Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park and then run around the lake. Swimming was the most arduous part of my training. I’m not naturally a good swimmer nor do I have any training or technical background in it, so I would just force myself to go to the lakes (often solo) and get in the water and swim for roughly two miles. As summer progressed and my Picnic date approached, I would do some combination of running, climbing, swimming, or biking, and each day I would try to go longer. Before attempting the Picnic, I summited the Grand Teton twice and memorized the exact route I needed to take in order to be quick and efficient on the ascent and descent. 

My motivation to attempt the Grand Teton Picnic was multifaceted. My primary reason was that I like pushing myself to extremes, to prove to myself that I'm capable of hard things. Completing a difficult goal is extremely satisfying. But, I didn’t just want to complete the Picnic; I wanted to do it fast, making it both a mental and physical challenge. Secondly, I think it's really important to challenge yourself to do things you’re bad at. My motto for the last year has been “Get comfortable with being uncomfortable.” I truly don't enjoy biking or swimming. But, I did begin to enjoy the process of progression, finding value in the small things I would learn each day. Lastly, my friends have participated in Picnic-ing and people around town are always talking about it. I would be lying if I didn't admit that I felt a certain level of FOMO for not experiencing this adventure. After last summer (where I was injured and couldn't be in the mountains) I came into this summer season guns blazing, ready to charge, feeling like I had to make up for lost time. In full transparency, I also continuously feel pressure to prove myself to others and myself.

Let's dive in!

The Grand Teton Picnic

02:00 Jackson Town Square. Alone. With the full moon at my back, I start pedaling into the darkness, excited for the day ahead. A half-hour into my ride, my friend Christian Johansen comes flying down the road in his Subaru blasting my favorite songs, screaming in the night. What a legend.

(Bike: 1 hour 21 min)

03:22 After biking 23 miles, I arrive at the Jenny Lake Overlook. I transitioned to begin the swim, the part I've dreaded the most. I hopped in the cold water and start swimming across the lake, a distance of 1.3 miles. Christian paddleboards next to me. After 53 minutes, my hands touch the dock on the other side of the lake. I'm an hour ahead of schedule and quickly transition into run-mode.

(Swim: 53 min)

04:36 I leave the boat dock and skip alone into the night for three dark miles to the Lupine Meadows Trailhead. Jimmi Ryan meets me there ready to absolutely rip. We ascend rapidly and reach the Lower Saddle in 2 hours 30 min, however I begin feeling fatigued. Biking 23 miles and swimming 1.3 miles impacts me more than I initially expected it would. My legs feel like sacks of potatoes, but we press on after a short rest. We begin approaching the fun and my favorite section: climbing the Grand Teton.

Jimmi and I scamper up the Owen Spaulding route, free soloing past roped-up parties towards the summit. I speak fatigue-induced gibberish while Jimmi maintains a level head, leading us with a perfect pace and excellent route finding, all while stoking me out to the other climbing parties; like your favorite coach-dad would. Jimmi has been my best friend and mountain partner for years and knows that if people around me know I am going for a speed record, that I won't hold anything back.

Thank you to the Exum Guides and people we saw on the Grand that let us move quickly past you. This made a big difference!

08:47 Summit! Each time I stand on the top of the Grand, it feels different. This time, reaching the summit from Lupine Meadows in 3 hours and 41 minutes feels extra satisfactory because I started from town. We take a short break, but then I realize I'm about to do the entire thing over again in reverse. Beginning an hour and 15 minutes ahead of my prediction, Jimmi and I quickly descend the Owen Spaulding route. We reach the Lower Saddle and I say goodbye to Jimmi, and proceed to let my wobbly, f****ed up legs carry me down the trail. Fatigue continues to tighten its grasp on me. Blisters burn the bottom of my feet. I take a high-speed, hard fall on my face. I grunt and moan in pain, but I keep running. I am determined. I make bear noises because I feel like a bear. Am I losing my mind? Running from Lupine Meadows to the boat dock was a disaster. I whistle and yell “excuse me!” and accidentally shoulder check someone aside (which I still feel bad about). I desperately want to be done running and hundreds of people are on the trail. This section is my low point.

(Run: 6 hours 47 min)

11:19 As I approach the boat dock, I hear my friend Adele Priestley yell for me. I'm so incredibly stoked to see her! I don’t know what to do. I kind of want to cry, but I end up laughing and saying, “this whole thing is so screwed up.” She smiles and gives me coconut water and a snack. I have been eating small amounts throughout the journey, but I'm so worked that no food is satisfying. It’s so hot out; I want to throw up, but I don’t.

11:26 I slither back into Jenny Lake. It feels amazing to be floating and not on my feet. I feel as if I've been swimming for a while, but I look back at the boat dock and I'm like twenty feet away...WTF! I think about the mantra Francine Bartlett from Medicine Wheel Wellness gave to me before this endeavor: "every stroke is sacred, every stroke is a blessing.” I contemplate one of my other mantras, “you can do hard things,” while trying not to drown. According to all of my friends who watch me flail, I'm the most ineffective swimmer, so I just try as hard as I can and make it across the lake fueled by pure grit. Adele is my queen, paddling alongside. My feet touch the slimy rocks on the other side of the lake, hallelujah! Jimmi jumps into the water and is cheering me on.

(Swim: 56 min)

12:23 I crawl/limp to shore. The entire shoreline rejoices in cheers. I think, where did all these people come from? I learn that Jimmi has told the entire overlook of tourists that I'm going for a speed record and they are ecstatic! This makes me smile and gives me an extra boost to keep pushing. Jimmi literally shoves crumbs of pop-tart into my mouth and I wash it down with root beer, which turns into an explosion. I put my chamois on, and then suddenly Stephen Shelesky and I are biking hella fast.

12:33 Luckily, it’s mostly downhill on the way back to town, because I’m progressively more delirious and speaking unintelligible words. Stephen and I crank 21 miles with a headwind and I tuck behind him to draft. All of a sudden, I hit his back tire with my front tire and eat it hard going 25 mph, fully launching over-the-bars and tomahawk onto pavement and then into the ditch, with still one leg attached to the bike. F***!

Luckily, Stephen rides away unscathed. We're only four miles from the Town Square. Am I broken? Is the bike broken? Am I going to have to run the last 4 miles to the finish? Luckily, we only had to fix my handlebars and derailleur, which are twisted from the crash and somehow nothing is broken on my body. I look down at my bloody arm and shoulder and say to myself, I'm okay — let’s finish this thing! We ride into town and under one of the iconic antler arches just as Jimmi and Christian jump out of the car cheering.

(Bike: 1 hour 10 min)

13:43 Finish. I can’t believe it. What a difficult adventure! One bit of reflection I had throughout the day was how lucky I am to have such amazing friends that are willing to support my goals. This would not have happened without their love, stoke, athleticism, special skillsets, and excitement. I'm beyond grateful to be surrounded by such great friends and this community! I cannot express my appreciation enough; I feel like I'm the luckiest person in the world.

(Total elapsed time: 11 hours 43 min)

During the Picnic, I focused on being present and moving through the mountainous environment. I didn't have the time or brain power to have many deep thoughts because I was too busy breathing heavily, pushing myself into delirium, and looking for my next foot placement. There were points during the day where I thought, “I just want to be done. Maybe I won't go for a fast time. I'm so tired.” But, the other voice in my head (or my friends that would be cheering/yelling at me) was persistent at saying the opposite. My friends know my love language.

The best part of the journey was the support my friends gave me. That truly made the entire Picnic worth it for me. I learned that when you state your goals out loud, the people around you that love you show up and the universe helps you achieve them. My friends have my back, understand who I am and why I do it, maybe even more than I do sometimes.

Some scattered thoughts throughout the Picnic: You can do hard things. Pain is temporary. Try hard. Be kind. Take an extra breath and moment to look around because you are surrounded by so much love.

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A post shared by MADISON ROSE OSTERGREN (@madisonnnrose)

The Grand Teton Picnic:

• Bike 23 miles from the Town Square to Jenny Lake
• Swim 1.3 miles across Jenny Lake
• Free solo the Grand Teton (~7K climbing)
• Run back down, for a total of 20 miles
• Swim 1.3 miles back across Jenny Lake
• Bike 23 miles back to the Town Square

This couldn't have happened without the immense stoke and support from my friends. Thank you all!

More info on the Picnic: http://thepicnic.us/

https://fastestknowntime.com/route/grand-teton-picnic-wy

Follow Madison on her adventures in Jackson Hole and beyond on Instagram.